The History of Jewelry, Part 5

Jewelry of Asia

China
One of the earliest cultures to begin making jewelry in Asia were the Chinese, around 5,000 years ago. Chinese jewelry designs were inspired by religion, featuring Buddhist symbols, a tradition that continues to this day.

The Chinese used more silver than gold in their jewelry, and decorated it with their favourite color, blue. Early on, they tied blue kingfisher feathers onto jewelry, and later, blue gems and glass were incorporated into their designs. However, jade was preferred over any other stone. The Chinese revered jade because of its hardness, durability, and beauty. It is so hard that it had to be fashioned using diamonds. The first Chinese jade pieces were very simple, but as time progressed, they evolved into more complex designs. Jade rings from between the 4th and 7th centuries BC show evidence of having been worked with a compound milling machine, hundreds of years before the first development of such equipment in the west.


In China, jewelry was worn frequently by both men and women to show their nobility and wealth, and in later years, to accentuate beauty. Women wore highly detailed gold and silver headdresses and other items, while men wore decorative hat buttons to show their rank, and silver or gold rings. Women also wore bands of gold on their foreheads, much like women in the Indus Valley. This was an early type of tiara, often decorated with precious gems. The most common jewelry worn in China was earrings, worn by both men and women. Amulets with a Chinese symbol or dragon were also common. Dragons, Chinese symbols, and phoenixes are frequently found on jewelry designs. Most Chinese graves found by archaeologists contain decorative jewelry.


India
India has the longest continuous legacy of jewelry making anywhere, dating back to Ramayana and Mahabharata times. While Western jewelry traditions were at the mercy of the rise and fall of empires, India enjoyed a continuous development of its art forms for five millennia. One of the first to start jewelry making were the people of the Indus Valley (present-day Pakistan and northwest India). By 1500 BC, residents of the Indus Valley were creating gold earrings and necklaces, bead necklaces, and metallic bangles. Before 2100 BC, before metals were widely used, the largest jewelry trade in the Indus Valley region was in beads, made from rough stones, that were placed into a hot oven and heated until they turned deep red, a highly prized color. The red stone would then be chipped to the right size and be bored with a hole with primitive drills. The beads were then polished and sometimes painted with designs. Bead making was often passed down through generations, with children of bead makers learning how to work beads from an early age.



Jewelry in the Indus Valley was worn predominantly by women and girls. They wore many clay or shell bracelets, shaped like doughnuts and painted black. Over time, clay bangles were replaced by more durable ones. Today in India, bangles are made out of metal or glass. As in China, women frequently wore were thin bands of gold on their brows, as well as earrings, primitive brooches, chokers, and gold rings. Some men in the Indus Valley wore beads, including tiny ones crafted to be woven into men’s and women’s hair.


India was the first country to mine diamonds, with some mines dating back to 296 BC. Realizing their valuable qualities, the Indians initiated the diamond trade, which flourished about 1,000 AD. Today, many Indian jewelry designs and traditions are still in use, and elaborate gold jewelry is commonplace in Indian ceremonies and weddings.